At the beginning of 2016 I left my home in Botswana, and although i thought the change would be drastic and terrible, i was shocked to find the change rather pleasant… the first couple years was a game of trial and error, where it was totally only about survival, but then things began to calm down, and there was room for more enjoyment in life…
throughout the last two and a half years, i have watched the surfers from the top of Southbroom main beaches parking lot, where they used to catch the waves out at the back of the rocks… so peaceful, so connected, so beautiful and serene, prehaps i could find my peace at the backline like so many of these surfers seem to? prehaps i could find my new love, a reason to live, and a piece of my soul floating out there in those cool blue-grey waters?
it took me much time to muster up the courage to find a teacher and actually try it, but now that I”m into it, all i want to do is eat, sleep and breathe the surf.
I think prehaps i have found my peace, not only in the ocean and the surfing, but in the people that share it with me as well.
