Well, I guess this was the moment I was working towards in the long run- having my own board, surfing everyday and catching unbroken waves, which I can sometimes ride in the right directions. I think back to the person I was last September, the month in which I had my very first lesson, and think of the person I am now. I’ve changed in this journey, in so many ways, both brilliant and bad. On that first lesson, I wouldn’t even put my head under the water when I had to jump through one of those powerful little white water waves, and now I dive off the board in every direction possible, paddling through currents and catching my own waves. Pretty crazy idea I guess, but with the tourist season out the way, I’ve been able to concentrate on surfing almost everyday… it’s the picture I wanted to work towards from the first wave I ever caught, and now in some amazing way I’ve achieved it… so what now?
Now I surf, as much as I can, and spend as much time in the ocean as humanly possible. The next goal isn’t one that I want to rush towards, mostly because I haven’t created it yet, but because I’m enjoying the moment for what it is. I’m in no way a good surfer yet, but I’m content with my improvements so far, and as much as id like to be riding barrels like the big boys on the backline, ill stick to paddling out only on small days and taking it slowly, because as I’ve been reminded- surfing is a journey, and no one will ever get it perfect every time, because its all a process of trial, error and passion.
Im no longer on the bottom of the food chain, but im still pretty far down. Im fine with this, as much as it drives me up the wall when people better than me can achieve greater things out in the water, I remind myself that they were all at this stage at some point in their lives, even if they passed this point of beginner surfing at a far younger age than I am now. So many people ive seen who begin surfing want to dive straight into it and be good at it, heck I was exactly the same, except I was prepared to swallow any ego I did have and play on the little foam waves, and spend the copious amounts of time in the water that it takes to actually get any good at something. I’ve done the time to get to the point I’m at now, and ill do more time to get to the point I want to be at, so as much as id like to become instantaneously good at surfing, I’m willing to put the time and effort that it takes to jump those mile stones.
Peace out, surf safe.
The Water Walking Vagabond 