What to do when there’s about a billion currents tugging at your ankles, whacking into your hips and hitting you over the side of the face, all pulverising you from different directions, as if the ocean has some sort of personal issue to sort out with you?
You carry on, obviously. Well, for as long as you can I guess.
The more I get into surfing, the pickier I become about my choice of waves. If you thrown me in those conditions a few months back, I would have been as happy as a moth with a lit light bulb. I wouldn’t have know the difference between a bad and a good wave. Now I’m beginning to realise that there are actually really bad days to surf on, and that not all waves are the same. Since I’ve started going further out and catching bigger waves, I’m also realising that the tide has an effect on waves, and that hollow waves are just damn impossible to ride unless you know what in this world you’re doing ( I don’t). so the ultimate lesson is to persevere as much as you can when the waves are good, and persevere just a little less when they’re bad.
So, since that last surf I had battling against the strong currents that were induced by the past weeks strong onshore winds, I’ve realised that sometimes you just have to chill on the beach instead of trying to surf every second wave out there, because good days will come when the currents aren’t strong and the waves are good and calm. so here’s to the days that matter more than others, the days you can actually surf, and the days that you and your mates and chill out in the water the whole day without fear of being taken out to sea by some rogue current that decided to snatch you.
Peace out. Stay safe. Surf when the waves are good!
The Water Walking Vagabond 